Apricot Vanilla Bean Jam

 Years ago, when I was working the night shift, I had a box of stone fruit ripening in the kitchen. I arrived home in the morning to discover that the fruit was perfectly, softly ripe, and needed to get in the jar right away. I was tired, but it was early morning, the house was quiet, and sun streamed into the kitchen that summer day. I canned those peaches while my roommates slept. I loved the rhythm, the method, holding and slicing those fruits while the juices dripped and the kitchen filled with the fragrance of summer. That must be when I started to really love canning.

Peaches are wonderful, but apricots are my favorite stone fruit for the jar. I thought the ship had sailed on apricots this season. But I was wrong: I was at the Berkeley Bowl when I saw these lovely blushing beauties, fragrant and ripe, in the organic produce section. Hallelujah! I had a second chance to make my very favorite jam, apricot vanilla bean. With the addition of spiced rum, this bright jam smells like sunshine in the Indies.

Growing up, my mother, brother, and I made jam in the summers. This one was my favorite, followed by raspberry. 

I find I prefer jams made without pectin. I like the softer consistency and, because I can use less sugar, a more pure fruit flavor. Less sweet jams lend themselves better to savory dishes, as well. I thought I would update my great-grandmother's apricot jam recipe, omit the pectin, but keep the vanilla bean. With inspiration from Jess at Sweet Amandine and Erika's method for pectin-free jam, I created this luscious, velvety, apricot jam infused with vanilla bean and spiced rum.

  

If you are not familiar with water bath canning, I suggest you read up here, or check some books out from the library.

Apricot Vanilla Bean Jam
makes about 5 cups

3 lbs apricots
1 cup sugar
2 tablespoons lemon juice
2 tablespoons spiced rum
3 vanilla beans

Halve and pit the apricots and place in a bowl. Add the sugar, toss to combine, cover and place in the refrigerator to macerate overnight or longer.

When you are ready to can, sterilize the jars in the water bath and warm the rings and lids in a separate small pot of water.

Heat the apricot-sugar mixture in a large saute pan over medium heat, stirring frequently, until boiling and the fruit softens, about 20 minutes.

Add the lemon juice and stir to combine.

Prepare your vanilla beans by cutting in half, and slicing down the center to open the pods.

Continue to cook the jam for another 20-30 minutes. For a chunky jam, mash the fruit with the back of a wooden spoon as it cooks. If you prefer a smoother consistency, process some or all of it with an immersion blender or food processor.

When the jam has thickened, taste and adjust for sugar. I added another 1/2 cup sugar at this point, but yours may not need it. Add the rum.

Check for doneness. I like the cold plate test.

One at a time, remove jars from the water bath, place inside half a vanilla bean, and fill with jam. Remove air bubbles, wipe the rim with a damp cloth, and seal the jars.

Process the jars in a water bath for 10 minutes.

Kinky Nectarine Habanero Jam

When my 16 month old son asked for a taste of this jam, we told him no. "It's hot," we said. But he insisted. We gave him a tiny taste, and he had a big reaction. He shook his head like a dog, beat his little fists on Daddy's chest, then stuck his hands in his mouth. And then emphatically asked for more.

I've been perfecting this recipe for a month. I hope you'll like it. This jam is very sweet, a little tart, and very hot. The sugar and the capsaicin send competing messages to your brain: "Pleasure!" "Pain!" and it is rather enticing. This jam is kinky! The sweet pleasure of fruit preserves yields to the hot pain of habanero... This jam will keep you warm on a cold winter's night.

It is good on toast with cheese or butter. I think it will make a damn fine cocktail with bourbon or tequila. And it is great tossed into a fruity salsa and served on grilled steak or shrimp tacos. 

Some notes on working with hot peppers:

Wear gloves. Seriously.

Most of the intense heat is in the membranes and seeds of the pepper. When mincing the peppers, remove and reserve the seeds and membranes. You can add them toward the end of cooking time when you're adjusting the heat level. 

Adjust the heat and sweetness separately. Sugar will tame the heat, so if you want to increase the heat, do that first. Then add more sugar if necessary.

If you are unfamiliar with water bath canning, read up here. 

Kinky Nectarine Habanero Jam

makes about 6 cups

3lbs nectarines (about 8 cups chopped, with skins on)
2-3 cups sugar
4 tablespoons lemon juice
2-4 tablespoons minced habanero (reserve the membranes and seeds)

The night before you plan to can, chop the nectarines and toss with 2 cups sugar in a bowl. Cover and allow to macerate in the refrigerator overnight.

In the morning, put your water bath on to boil and sterilize the jars. Warm the lids and rings in a separate pot of water.

Meanwhile, pour the nectarine-sugar mixture into a large saute pan and heat on medium until boiling. Stir frequently. When the fruit has softened, after 15 minutes or so, add the lemon juice and 2 tablespoons of minced habanero. Continue to cook 20-30 minutes until the jam has thickened. Mash the fruit with the back of a wooden spoon. Or, if you prefer a smoother texture, puree some or all of the jam with an immersion blender or food processor.

Taste the jam and adjust. If you want more heat, add more minced habanero and/or some of the seeds and membranes. If it's too hot, add sugar to tame the heat.

Test for doneness. I like the cold plate test. 

Fill jars, leaving 1/4 inch headspace. Process in a water bath for 10 minutes.